|
Author |
Message |
Thaner
Location: New Plymouth
|
Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:31 pm |
|
|
Ásbjórn the Brave wrote: | cool, i find a good cheap wire to use, i used it for my glove and am using it for my chain for my helmet, its brand is Zenith, its TIE WIRE and has a blue cardboard circle on top of the wire roll. in a small orange box on the cardboard it says:
16G (1.gmm dia.)
x 30M
it also says(not in orange box):
GALVANISED - FOR LONG LIFE
HANDY DISPENSER REEL
costs $8 from bunnings warehouse |
I pay 6 bucks a roll for the exact same stuff from Taranaki Farmers
_________________ I now wait to shake the Hand of Fate |
|
|
|
Thaner
Location: New Plymouth
|
Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:35 pm |
|
|
also was in wanganui today, and in stardust creations I saw a chainmail coif (with mantle) constructed fromw hat appeared to be aluminium 16 gauge wire, they were selling it for ...$500 LOLOLOLOLOLOLOL I quizzed the lady and suggested that a coif made from decent steel could be purchased for under $120, she got a bit annoyed wif me
on a serious note, as for the amount of that zenith galv, wire you are gonna go through for something like a coif... I know it's not the kinda thing they had around at the time but soak it in salt water for a week with an electric charge in it and problem solved, but yeah. You go through 5 rolls of 30m packs of the wire to make a coif with a half mantle. thats with a winder in the range of 8mm or so diameter
_________________ I now wait to shake the Hand of Fate |
|
|
|
Ryu_Soma
Location: Gore
|
Posted: Sat Feb 07, 2009 10:40 pm |
|
|
when finding suitable wire - galvansied or not? what type of cheap wire would ppl recommend - i will have a look at the Zenith tie wire tomorrow
_________________ Dom is als dom posten |
|
|
|
Bogue
Sponsor
Location: Palmy
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 9:01 am Like chain on a wire |
|
|
Things like tie wire and galv electric fence are low tensile mild steel.
Easy to make chain out of but make sure you have plenty of spare links and a pair of pliers on you at all times. 'cause you'll be spending a fair bit of time repairing it.
Go for high tensile wire.
There was a farm supply store on the Cnr of Egmont Rd and main rd to Waitara. They had the stuff but the hardest part is getting it in 16# you may have to go to 2mm. In which case you can save a fortune by using metal coathangers (2mm high tensile) as many places just throw them out.
Harder to make up but lasts longer.
If you run it through a couple of bits of sandpaper as you are winding your springs you'll get rid of a large proportion of the Galv which will allow you to oil it up and get that nice aged (Like rust but different) look.
Better to get it right than spend hours knitting up a coif and mantle and having Fungus tell you it won't be any good for combat. 'cause that's just gutting.
Hope that helps
Cheers
Bogue
|
|
|
|
wuzzle
Location: levin
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 10:10 am Chain links |
|
|
Ok you lot
don`t even bother with most of above chain options
Bear in mind this is for protection not show!
Can not recall alot of galvanised any thing Way back when....
Would strongly suggest you contact Justin and Sophie
AKA ALL FIRED UP I do belive they are doing a bulk
link purchase
Dimentions: 1.6 gauge 10mm inside diameter SPRING STEEL
is what I am using (check to confirm)
Yep SPRING STEEL not "cob webs"
I belive you would apreciate Said SPRING STEEL the first time
some smhuck engages your neck area in one of those "opps" moments
Let us remember unless you are a LARPA
we fight with steel not feathers
and I for one will never comprimise propper protection for
expediancy!
If you think you should comprimise I would suggest you ask
our SOUTHERN NORSE THANE DAWSON to describe what
it felt like to do a well controlled head blow resulting in
a very foolish re-enactors helmet caving in!
due to the expediancy of helmet making using salvaged
washing machine peices
I shudder to think what could have been the result of that
had he not been lucky and facing a well controlled and
experianced opponent
_________________ Float Sink or Swim as Yee please but Know you are always watched for even in the
masses is clarity obtained by your Betters
and no one of Upwright Character fooled |
|
|
|
Keeghan_M
Location: Wellington
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:32 am |
|
|
hi all
im making a chain curtain for my helmet (to cover the back of my neck) and i know ill have to rivet it on, just wondering how i use rivets, what tools are needed etc. Sorry if this is uber basic, im really new to metal, never done anything with metal before
|
|
|
|
griff
Location: Auckland
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:50 am |
|
|
Quote
" i know ill have to rivet it on"
you dont have to rivet it on just drill a series of small holes along the bottom of your helmet (where your chain will start hanging from) and use your chain links to secure it.
|
|
|
|
Keeghan_M
Location: Wellington
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 11:52 am |
|
|
ah, now thats a brilliant idea, thanks griff
|
|
|
|
Oskar der Drachen
Location: Masterton
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:57 pm |
|
|
When I've made a chain drape for a helmet I found the easiest way was to fold the chain into leather and then attach that edge to the helmet.
You can rivet, sew it with cord or leather, or use Vervelles. the below is a link to the Armour Archive that has some good discussion and a nice picture or two.
http://forums.armourarchive.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=80687&highlight=vervelles
Basically a Vervelle is a rivet that fits through the metal of the helmet and the leather wrapped edge of the mail. The vervelle has a hole drilled in it that just sticks out past the surface of the leather and a cord goes through all the exposed ends to hold the drape on.
|
|
|
|
Oskar der Drachen
Location: Masterton
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:17 pm |
|
|
Quote: | you dont have to rivet it on just drill a series of small holes along the bottom of your helmet (where your chain will start hanging from) and use your chain links to secure it. |
I have seen it done both ways, and from what I have seen and heard maintaining both the helmet and the chain is easier if you can take the chain drape off the helmet when needed.
If you are going to drill the bottom edge of the helm with holes anyway, go the extra step and make the pieces modular and save yourself grief and a lot of swearing time later.
|
|
|
|
griff
Location: Auckland
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:28 pm |
|
|
here s one
Description: |
|
Filesize: |
60.85 KB |
Viewed: |
25692 Time(s) |
|
|
|
|
|
griff
Location: Auckland
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:33 pm |
|
|
heres another
Description: |
|
Filesize: |
50.41 KB |
Viewed: |
25689 Time(s) |
|
|
|
|
|
Keeghan_M
Location: Wellington
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:49 pm |
|
|
that last image is basically exactly what im trying to achieve, but on a nazal helm. I wonder how hard its gonna be to drill through the helm...
|
|
|
|
griff
Location: Auckland
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:54 pm |
|
|
as Oskar der Drachen says it is good to be able to remove the chain without to much drama.
i personally stich mine.
tryed to upload two more examples but i have reached my max upload so i will do it later
|
|
|
|
hopies
Location: Taumarunui
|
Posted: Sun Feb 08, 2009 1:55 pm |
|
|
http://www.armourarchive.org/
go to the disuccion area. go into the newbiw thread.
Armourers from around the wold will answer your question.
Take some time to read the threads first. Most of your questions have already been asked and answered.
Sophie
_________________ Ignore the stains behind the man behind the curtain. |
|
|
|
|