Pics of Albion swords in DBK Scabbards

[Katlin Hytonen]

Hi John, Pics look good. I have a two handed claymore that is really heavy. Made in Scotland by a swordsmith and folded several times, I dont know how old it is Regards, Katlin.

[Mad Jim]

[Mad Jim]

How has your Spada held up Mikron? Its a nice looking sword I have been eyeing that and the "Fechterspiel" up from A&A, I think I like the Spada better, would go cool with my Liechtenauer [still I'd like another]. Whats your take on it? and have you put it up against any of Albions swords?

[JohnF]

That's a nice looking falchion. I find it interesting the mix of harness with
falchion and buckler. I'd always thought sword and buckler were preferred
by those without armour. I guess I need to do a bit more research, ay .

Where will you get that from, Mike? I'm also interested in Jim's question, have you been able to compare the Spada de Zohgo with an Albion Liechtenauer?

[JohnF]

[Mad Jim]

http://heronarmoury.co.uk/2009/?page=swords/m/falchion#falc

These guys in the UK, Scotland I think have some nice falchions, all with custome opitions even some of the swords look nice...I like the link picture they have when you go into 'Medieval swords' it looks to be a 16th C. style bastard with side rings..and on the falchions I like examples VII and XII..although from what I read Heron Armory swords etc. are made more for the re-enactors market than European Historical Arts..still they look nice!

[mikronn]

Hi all

To Jim re the Spada: nope haven't tested it against an Albion but this person did.
http://www.myarmoury.com/review_aa_zogho.html

I have tested it against Colin McKinstry's sword (not sure of origin) but is a decent hard steel longsword and on Callum's Peter Lyon and it has held up very well. In fact the ring noise on the bind is poetry.

Now if only I could beat Colin a time or two........

John re the falchion: the smith is a gent by the name of Ben Rial. http://www.forgedintime.com/
He made me an Irish skain which is very nice indeed.

I've had some really good chats with Ben via email and have to say I am really looking forward to testing out the sword. I have made a waster version and it is very powerful on the bind against a standard one hand sword for I.33 sword and buckler. The waster is also very quick out of the bind and from most of the plays. If the steel holds true to this it one weakness is likely to be rapid changes of direction.

Jim - those Heron Armory blades are very nice indeed. Example 1 is quite similar to the falchion I have asked Ben to make and is based on an Italian design.

Photos once it arrives.

John - I go to Palmy a bit (my karate style is based there) so could arrange a test practice at some stage. Not sure if you are planning to come to Callum's dagger workshop next year but I'll be there.

regards

mike

[mikronn]

whoops - correction to last post. The myArmory review is against another A&A, not the Leichtenaur.

mike

[Mad Jim]

Cool. I'd like to see more sparring swords in the flesh, but down here we are few and those with steel are fewer still, at least on a good day we have 6 people, though there are 8. Our training is comming along. This eveing when I picked up my sword it seemed suprisingly light..I love it.
I had a play with Xena's [not her real name but she's fiesty] Tinker/hanwei bastard the other day via sword and buckler and is very light and quick, easy to use in one hand, although I find it to light for longsword application and due to its bastard nature the grip is far to short, though if it were the only sword to hand my enemies shall bleed. Its good for her as she is almost a hobbit ahaha or a very skinny dwarf that shaves!
Another fellow has a Hanwei Hand'N'a half practical with the massive pommel which I just don't like and soon another will have the later smaller pommeled version. All in all the hanwies have stood up to the task.
I find that with certain techs. you cut up your hilt at times and that really is a pain espicaily with the Liechtenauer and its cord bound grip, so to stop fraeing and any unwinding if I happen to take damage I repair the damaged area with builders pva giving it a seal and protection, works well.

[mikronn]

Hi Jim

I ended getting 4 of the Tinker Hanwei longsword trainers - they are good swords! We're still using them as club swords.

As someone on MyArmory suggested, grinding down the edges to make them a little thicker might help them hold up better. They are certainly quick. May do that over the Xmas break.

I tried some of the new practicals and didn't like them - on sold them.

The A&A, just as the review says, feels a litle stiff at times in solo plays but as soon as you train with a partner, it comes alive.

I did end up re-hilting all the Hanweis: pulled of the leather and on a couple removed the wood too. I rebuild the hilts with oak (and jarrah on one), added risers and re-did the leather. Makes a big difference. Worth doing if you have the time.

cheers

mike

[Mad Jim]

Bloody Hanweis! I had to rehilt my prac Norman with a tighter grip in oak also, plus I changed the cross with the prac. knightly, now that the knightly is a short short with curved cross! It is written that the Norman prac. is lighter than the hanwei tinker bastard but a think the latter is lighter.
I had first looked at the hanwei tinker longswords but from what I read on them I was not so sure so I went with the Liechtenauer, plus I like that look better. Think I'l stick to the higher end swords as you get more for your money with one or two than replacing lesser blades all the time!

[JohnF]

[mikronn]

Hi John

Not sure, but think anything over NZ$250 (shipping inclusive) picks up all the various duties. The NZ Customs site is pretty clear on the matter.

You should make it clear to them what to declare and if need be, include something about the swords ownership. That way you pay for duty only on the scabbards.

Not sure I'll be up your way prior to Callum's workshop but would very much be interested in seeing them then.

Callum is also talking about running drills on throws, off-balancing and similar for those in armor against those in armor to help some of our colleagues who are planning on competing in Europe where they are seriously full-on.

I suspect I'll be helping - we have both done Eastern martial arts for ~30 years.

cheers

mike

[JohnF]

Huzzah! Straight through NZ customs. Got held up at Home Border
Control whilst promises of good Christmas presents were extorted out of
me.



The I33 is a marked improvement on my CAS/Hanwei clunker. It feels
lighter, even though it is about the same weight. I find it quicker to move
between guards and attacks during flourishing. Looking forward to the last
play of the year this Sunday.

The Sherriff feels powerful. It's only 86cm long, but it feels like it can
cleave through flesh and bone. It has a very broad blade, and a
pronounced taper towards the tip. It feels very solid, yet looking at it in
profile it seems very thin. I guess this is because I've only ever seen
blunt swords. This would make it perfect for cutting, Perhaps not so good
at thrusting against armour, as the tip isn't reinforced. But that's fine in
1250-1340. Very good for thrusting against those with little or no armour.
It is not razor sharp, which I understand is good. A razor is for cutting
hair, a sword is for cutting people. Therefore the edge must be suitable
for flesh, bone, clothes, and armour. The swords edge seems good for
this purpose. Currently it's at work whilst I get a lockable box made for it.

The scabbards are well made. My wife is much more impressed by them
than she is the swords. The belts sit nicely on my hips. I can hold them
upside down and the swords stay in them. According to the maker he
makes them a lot more snug than the originals, apparently extant
examples are a little looser. The swords require a firm tug to draw them.
There is no metallic ringing sound like you hear in the movies .

The following is my speculation on quickly drawing a sword. In my
limited reading only Henry De Sainct Didier discusses methods of drawing
a sword from it's scabbard, and he doesn't discuss speed, merely that
you should draw in such away as your opponent can't stifle your
movement. I suggest that the dagger was the quick draw weapon of
Europe. Swords weren't part of regular civilian dress until about the 16th
Century. And if you're at war, you'll already have a weapon in your hand.
On the other hand, everyone had a dagger, or knife.

Having said that I have been practising drawing and sheathing my swords.

[mikronn]

Hi John

That sword is a gem - nice one. I look forward to hearing more from you as you get a chance to practice with it.

You raise an interesting question about the draw. I have never heard of iaido (sword drawing) equivalent in Western Martial Arts. I am happy to be corrected!

I have done a fair amount of draw and cut with a katana. I'd be very interested in your impressions of the ability to do similar with your new sword.

I agree with your point about war - your sword would be in hand. But given sword and buckler was civilian 'dress' at one time it would be a good question whether you would deal with an attack using unarmed defence or try for a draw. Iaido isn't fast so much as smooth but it is surprising how little space you need.

Do let us know more as you research and practice

cheers

mike