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Victorius
Location: IMPERIVM ROMANA: The Roman club with a Living History focus.New Roman Club
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Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 8:51 pm 1mm plate steel for a NAAMA headblow helmet |
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Want to make a NAAMA headblow helmet. Don't have any 2mm steel. If I shape a helmet using cold-raising (not dishing) using 1mm mild steel, then promptly make a sightly smaller one and fit it inside the other one, so it's actually 2mm thick in total...Will that meet general safety requirements? Or does it have to be made out of single sheets 2mm thick to start with? _________________ VICTORIVS, BA.MA.HONS.I, IMPERIVM. ROMANA |
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Silver
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Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 9:37 pm |
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WOW that sounds like far too much effort.
if you can can make two 1mm cold then why not make one 2mm helm
afterthought though is there headblow at naama (I havent been for a while) _________________ I mistook it for a brothel.
honest mistake. |
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Victorius
Location: IMPERIVM ROMANA: The Roman club with a Living History focus.New Roman Club
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Posted: Fri Mar 13, 2009 11:29 pm |
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Two things:
1. I don't have any 2mm steel (it is expensive?), but I have nearly 2 square metres of 1mm.
2. Forming 1mm is easy, but my little amount of hot-rolled 1.6mm that I made my visors from was a real pain to form - so what would 2mm be like?
I haven't been to NAAMA for years, I meant the normal way most of us fight when we fight people from other clubs (except when doing Historical Combat of course). _________________ VICTORIVS, BA.MA.HONS.I, IMPERIVM. ROMANA |
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ChronicD
Sponsor
Location: Sweden
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 12:48 am 1mm, 1.6mm and 2mm |
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Hello there
The Naama requirement for 2mm steel for helms is based on the helms use for headblow. It has been through years of experience that we have learned that anything less them 2mm (though 1.6mm properly treated would be adequate for naama headblow IMHO) would not bear up to the damage caused. Should one use something thinner it would be susceptible to crushing damage and the wearer being stuck in his helm. It is possible that thinner metals when treated correctly would suffice, but how does one measure and marshal it. Rather make a rule for 2mm and not worry whether it is steel or brass and how it has been treated.
Now one could say that "I will not do headblow" but it would be a headache for the marshals to manage!!! In other words the potential for an accident would increase dramatically.
Your idea to use two 1mm bowls one inside the other in my eyes not full fill the naama requirements as over its use the first might crack and give independent of the second inner one. then after the first has a week point, you may as well be wearing a 1mm helm.. You could suggest that you would weld them together around the edge and at points across the dome - but it would not suffice. the area where the two bowls are not physically joined would be where the outer plate took all the force until it failed and then the inner plate would follow suite. it is almost like having a backup 1mm helm waiting for the 1st to fail. lol
I am saying things you probably already know, but bear with me...
You say you have 2 sq m of 1mm steel and you want to use it. I would suggest you use it for something else and buy a small piece of 2mm for the helm (the helm is the most inportant and under the most stringent of rules).
1mm steel is not good for to many things - in platemail it is the thickness, curves and ridges that give strength. It depends on how small these curves are - in other words using 1mm steel for a breast plate would be asking for it to be bent in half - but instead if you made the 1mm steel in to scales and made a scale vest - it would suffice just fine (as long as the scales were small enough and had a curve to them). Though the scale vest of 1mm would suffer in the long run it will outlast the 1mm breastplate by an age.
Therefore i would suggest you take the 1mm and use it for things like gauntlet finger lames, scales and practice - you can use it to quckly make something to test a pattern and make sure things work!!!
I hope this helps and i am sorry to point out that there are not any ways around the 2mm rule for naama and other styles (all headblow styles i know of use this rule). It is for your safety and so that your kit will last longer. - I remember a few years ago that conal had a viking? helm that had a nasel guard that was 3 pieces of 2mm steel = 6mm toatle. This also extended as a strip over the crown of the helm where it criss-crossed with another going down the sides. however it was still a 2mm bowl underneath. Have you still got it conal?
anyway im sick of typing
Dan _________________ The only verdict is vengeance; a vendetta, held as a votive, not in vain, for the value and veracity of such shall one day vindicate the vigilant and the virtuous. |
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Ben
Location: Auckland
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 9:05 am |
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4.1 All combatants must wear rigid head protection covering the entire skull from the brow and ears upwards. The outer surface of this head protection must be ferrous or copper alloy. It is recommended to be of not less than 1.6 mm thickness. Facial protection consisting of a nasal bar of at least 2 mm thickness and cheek and eye guards are also strongly recommended.
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taken from the NAAMA rules in the reference section
I am not aware of a requirement for all helms to be 2mm thick (unless this is an event special?) - a helm of 1.2mm will stand up fine to NAAMA headblow combat - if you want to start with the heavy hitting stuff I would go to at least 1.6mm depending on the shape and structure of your helm, 2mm is good for anything but can often be too heavy for some people.
For unsupported stuff over your face (like a nasal) flat 2mm isn't good enough for me - you need to put a ridge in it to avoid getting a flat nose if you fall on it
The statement about copper alloy is a bit interesting given that you can get brasses ranging from soft as copper right through to high strength alloys comparable to mild steel - just remember, its your head inside it when you choose.
1mm steel is fine for most armour if you construct it well (like roll the edges - seriously, this doubles the strength of your armour). I wouldn't use it on a large span like a breastplate or thigh plate, but for arms its fine. My 1mm arms have lasted 2 years with no significant damage - not even from the Clontarf or last years Taupo tourney. These were cold hammered with rolled edges all the way around every piece.
on a side note, laminating 2 layers (like victor is proposing) is, when properly secured, significantly stronger that a single layer of equivalent thickness. This is because this method provides a better stress distribution that a single layer. Also the gap that he is likely to experience between layers (small, but it will be there) affects the second moments of area (Ixx and Iyy) in a 2nd power relationship thus providing significantly more resistance to bending.
Some of you may know more about this - I have only provided a quick brush over of the concept.
1mm is easy to hammer, 1.6 gt harder (try cold rolling edges on it ) and 2mm is a lot harder |
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Bogue
Sponsor
Location: Palmy
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 10:00 am |
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Victorious asked:- Quote: | .... If I shape a helmet using cold-raising (not dishing) using 1mm mild steel, then promptly make a sightly smaller one and fit it inside the other one, so it's actually 2mm thick in total...Will that meet general safety requirements? Or does it have to be made out of single sheets 2mm thick to start with? |
May pay to do the inside one first then the outer one second.
Problem being that any cold working will harden the steel, making it brittle thereby increasing the likelyhood of fracturing.
For some reason hot rolled is harder to work than cold rolled (thought it would be the other way round myself).
There were some of those horrid Army helms that had been cut into salet for Naama use. Unfortunately they are just over a mm in thickness and are treated spring formed in a press.
While this may be great for glancing off small high speed things like bullets and shrapnel they are less suitable for withstanding the impact of 2kg of slow moving steel and like the hardened 1mm can fracture.
Remember this is your gourd you are covering and you would be far better buying a bit of 2mm from an engineering shop or scrap merchant than bothering to make this double up thing you are contemplating.
Personally I wouldn't pass it for use or wear it but that's just me.
Cheers
Bogue |
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psyclone
Location: Auckland
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 11:51 am |
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Question: Where is a good place to get sheet steel and flat bars in Auckland _________________ Something goes here... |
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Ben
Location: Auckland
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 1:14 pm |
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I get sheet from Vulcan Steel in East Tamaki, stainless from Corus Metals and Flat bar (spring steel for weapons) from Archers Auto Springs in Takanini. for mild go to Fletchers Easysteel in Penrose or Steel and tube (wherever they are). for fencing mesh go to The Locker Group in East Tamaki
For more options try the yellow pages for one near you - you may notice that my sources are generally within walking distance from work... |
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stephan
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 10:21 pm |
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just as a side note ..........
when you talk about spliting helms from the force of blows and possible fracturing the helm
i have never seen a helm split ,ever or even heard of one
besides when you are hitting hard enough to cause this kind of damage
you better bloddy be wearing a thick gambeson and full 2mmplate
as helms are usualy harder than bones |
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ChronicD
Sponsor
Location: Sweden
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Posted: Sat Mar 14, 2009 11:23 pm Helm splitting |
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You say you have never seen a helm split. i think this is because almost (i cant be absolute here) all helms you would have seen - especially those being used for re-enactment are at least 1.6mm and mostly 2mm thick. i can assure that after you have received a good hit to 1mm and then had to ping it back out a couple of times you have effectively cold worked the steel and made it much more brittle and after a couple of these occurances, fractures will occur and then cracks and then its simply not safe.
Quote: | 4.1 All combatants must wear rigid head protection covering the entire skull from the brow and ears upwards. The outer surface of this head protection must be ferrous or copper alloy. It is recommended to be of not less than 1.6 mm thickness. Facial protection consisting of a nasal bar of at least 2 mm thickness and cheek and eye guards are also strongly recommended. |
I find this very interesting, i was not aware of the exact wording, i was not aware that it said "it is recommended" when talking about thickness's. I personally would interpret the 1.6 as an absolute rather then recommendation and i would be surprised at anyone who didnt.
To say that it is safe as you have never seen it happen is proof that our current requirements for 1.6 (i still think this is too little for the crown in headblow) or preferably 2mm are based on tried and tested practices.
We are talking about people safety and if anything, more armour should be worn not less - i dont believe it good practice to be arguing for the use of less or half measures (theres a little bit of a punn there i think 1mm = 1/2 of 2mm). These requirements are here for a reason and the original thread asked if 2 sheets of 1mm would suffice for naama. Unfortunately it is not in the rules and is therefore a marshal decision on the day - someone might pass it, i wouldn't and i know many others that wouldn't. It is simply better to use it for something else
D _________________ The only verdict is vengeance; a vendetta, held as a votive, not in vain, for the value and veracity of such shall one day vindicate the vigilant and the virtuous. |
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Victorius
Location: IMPERIVM ROMANA: The Roman club with a Living History focus.New Roman Club
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Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 1:27 am |
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Thanks everyone,
The gap issue between the two layers can be overcome by riveting the two layers together, therefore making two 1mm sheets that are fairly close together, into something that actually is 2mm thick...
But probably not worth it...
So, looks like when I make it, it's off to get some 2mm plate. _________________ VICTORIVS, BA.MA.HONS.I, IMPERIVM. ROMANA |
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Freebooter
Principal Sponsor
Location: Hamilton
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Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:47 am |
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stephan wrote: |
i have never seen a helm split ,ever or even heard of one
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We split a 2mm mild steel great helm at Taupo with an axe as a demonstration. The blow sliced a three inch gash into the steel through the top and side (i.e through the corner at the top).
I would not have liked to own the head that might have been underneath it.
N
Last edited by Freebooter on Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:51 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Ben
Location: Auckland
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Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:49 am |
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Quote: |
You say you have never seen a helm split. i think this is because almost (i cant be absolute here) all helms you would have seen - especially those being used for re-enactment are at least 1.6mm and mostly 2mm thick. i can assure that after you have received a good hit to 1mm and then had to ping it back out a couple of times you have effectively cold worked the steel and made it much more brittle and after a couple of these occurances, fractures will occur and then cracks and then its simply not safe.
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NO - a lot of helms in use in NZ are less than 2mm thick - I have seen one before that appeared to be less than 1mm thick (flimsy as h*ll but someone was using it).
1.2mm this helms are fine IF you make it from separate peices - if someone was to cold dish a helm from 1.2mm sheet the final bowl would be a lot thinner than 1mm by the end of it and thus insufficient. likewise a spun bowl has a fairly even final thickness, although I dont like the way they look on a helm.
Note that I am talking about NAAMA headblow here - not the recent trend towards charged blow stuff. thats not NAAMA combat and requires better protection. If someone at NAAMA dents your helm then they are hitting way too hard anyway. |
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Bogue
Sponsor
Location: Palmy
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Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:08 am It's your gourd, and we don't do transplants |
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Ben gave us this absolute pearler:- Quote: | ...likewise a spun bowl has a fairly even final thickness, although I dont like the way they look on a helm. |
Sorry dude but that is complete bollocks about the thickness being even.
I cut one up for a paneled spangenhelm and to check how thick they were and the thickness varies.
You may have original thickness at the rim and at the very centre (crown) but the area where most headshots wind up is around 1/2 to 2/3 of the original thickness.
You can find sufficient sized bits of 2mm in your local engineers scrap bin, just take copies of your pattern pieces and ask if you can have a scrounge, scrap is only worth $160.00 a tonne at the moment so chuck them a fiver and you should have more than enough steel.
Quite often they are interested in what you want to do and will be rather accommodating.
cheers
Bogue |
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Ben
Location: Auckland
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Posted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 10:15 am |
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Like I said - I dont do spun bowls, never have
Interesting that they vary so much though... |
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